I’ve been creating basic 3D shapes with heavy buckram as a starting point to make decisions about sizes, proportion, and shaping of new hat designs.
First I wrap an object such as a vase, wood hat block, or bowl in plastic wrap not only to protect the object but also to prevent the buckram from sticking to the object.
I’ve learned to also add a piece of plastic between any overlapping layers of wet buckram if I want to get them apart after it’s dried.
I wet the buckram with water using a spray bottle and allow the buckram to soften about 5 minutes, then work it into place over the shape with my hands.
I use pins, rubber bands, or string to hold the buckram in place while it dries depending on the shape I’m working with and what it’s made of.
Supply Sources: I’ve been pleased with the heavy buckram I’ve ordered from Hats by Leko and from Judith M. The red blocking pins are from Guy Morse-Brown. I purchased mine through ebay.
After drying, the buckram shape is ironed smooth, then removed from the block and trimmed to shape. Millinery wire and a bias strip of crinoline are stitched to the edge to reinforce it.
©2012 Alice Frenz
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you just need a water to shape it ?? and than when I will make a hat from this want it broke when for example it will be raining ? or maybe I should preserve it somehow ?
Hi Mirodriko,
The buckram form is used as the foundation for the hat. It is then covered with fabric. Traditionally, a buckram hat foundation is covered with a fine fabric such as silk or velvet, that you wouldn’t want to get wet anyways. So you wouldn’t wear this type of hat in the rain. Hats by Lecko has a PDF showing how to cover the buckram form for a fascinator. It’s at the bottom of this page – http://www.hatsupply.com/foundationfabric.htm
I think it would be interesting though to experiment with some type of water proof sealant for the buckram and then covering with a waterproof fabric for a rain hat. Something I’ve been thinking of trying myself.
Thanks for reading my post. Alice
when you say “ironed smooth” after it dries……do you use an iron that you would for clothing???
Yes. I have a nice Rowenta travel size iron that I prefer because it’s lighter weight than my full size iron and easier for me to move around over the 3-dimensional shape of the buckram on the wood block.
Yes. I have a smaller size electric travel iron that I use. I like the smaller size as it’s easier to see where I’m ironing and less heavy to move around to different angles on rounded blocks.
FINALLY!!! THANK YOU so much for posting this!! I have been searching for some feedback on shaping buckram. I have never used it before and I am using it to shape part of my costume.
My question is… what setting do you use on the iron?
Hi Danielle, Sorry for being so late in replying. I use the permanent press/cotton blends setting. Sometimes for stubborn areas so will go warmer to the wool setting.
How will you attach fabric to the bulcram
I recommend the book “Hats!” By Sarah Cant. It includes step by step instructions and photos for making and covering 3 different classic shaped hats with buckram and covering them with fabric. Here’s a link to the book on Amazon. Your local library might also have a copy. Link to Hats!: Make Classic Hats and Headpieces in Fabric, Felt, and Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/0312656866/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IupZzb4F95JJH
I’m looking to create a band shape. Not a full shaped hat. Any ideas on what form to use for the shaping?
Hi Marcels,
Any rounded shape about the size of your head will work. I would go to a thrift store and look at glass, plastic, or wood bowls. I take anything I see that looks close to the shape I want and go to their mirror to “try it on”. Look also at the children’s area and at holiday decorations. I’ve found plastic toy helmets and holiday hats, such as a plastic St. Patrick’s Day derby that I’ve used.
That is so resourceful! Super ideas. Thank you.